Rated by National Geographic Traveler as one of the world's 50 must-see destinations, Kerala Backwaters is a labyrinth of lagoons, lakes, rivers and canals extending almost the entire length of Kerala state in southern India. The amassing of seawater at the beach, in particular by waves tearing the land to form low barrier islands, created the backwaters.

The backwater routes date back over the centuries. It is an inexpensive means of transportation and facilitates a large local trade in coconut, rubber, rice and spices. Today, these waterways link remote villages and islands to the mainland. The calm waters, fine sailing weather, and picturesque rural countryside make Kerala Backwaters an alluring destination.

Despite its popularity as one of the world's exotic hotspots, visitors can avoid the tourist traps by cruising the palm-fringed backwaters aboard a slowly drifting 'Kettuvallam' houseboat]. Explore small coastal villages, dine on local cuisine prepared by the boat's cook, and learn the ropes of sailing-or just relax on the sun-drenched deck and revel in the beauty of the landscape.

Available for a pittance, the Kettuvallam is an intrinsic part of Kerala's heritage. These simple, non-mechanized boats were the sole mode of transportation in the inland waterways when road transport did not exist. The motorization of waterways saw a decline in the significance of the Kettuvallam as a carrier of bulk cargo. In the recent past, the Kettuvallam underwent a redefinition of function; the rice boats were transformed into hospitable houseboats with bedrooms and working toilets.

During a cruise, tourists have the option of docking at one of the villages to sample fish delicacies and toddy [a natural beverage produced from coconut trees]. With a punter and a cook on board, it is a pleasure to observe traditional rural Indian life from the houseboat. Ultimately, it is the element of surprise [vibrantly clothed women wandering waist-deep in lush rice paddies, children playing at the water's edge, and bare-chested fishermen working their nets], and the raw wilderness that make cruising the backwaters a unique experience.

Most houseboats are docked in Alappuzha, which is a 90-minute bus ride south of Kochi. SilkAir flies directly to Kochi from Singapore, where there are regular flights to and from San Francisco. The DTPC Tourist Reception and Alleppey Tourism Development Cooperative offer backwater houseboat trips. The tourist season peaks between October and March and is dullest during the monsoon.